Thursday

This memorial stands outside Newry to commemorate Bobby Sands, who was the  parliamentary representative for Fermanagh and South Tyrone when he died in the H-Blocks of Long Kesh prison, on 5th May, 1981 after 66 days of hunger-strike.

"Irish Song & Europe" was the title for Tommy Sands talk on Thursday morning. In a very well executed presentation,  he discussed both the European contributions and influences  within Irish music, and the effect Irish music has had as it traveled across Europe, carried by the diaspora of immigrants, itinerant workers and later by modern Irish musicians carrying their music back  to Europe.

Beginning with a song called "Let the Circle be Wide Round the Fireside," Tommy drew us into  his session as a storytelling and song experience that was very informative, yet comfortable -  like we were sitting in his living room chatting over tea.

As he talked about Irish music throughout history, Tommy brought us full circle from the origins of song with Amergon the Bard of the Milesians to sharing personal experiences of The Sands Family touring Europe. The language barrier has always been a challenge, and Tommy explained how The Sands Family embraced that by making efforts to translate some of their songs and even show similarities between Irish traditional tunes and those of  other cultures. He showed a piece of a video tape from a Sands Family performance in East Berlin in 1975, the young people were all singing along to "The Winds Are Singing Freedom" and standing in their seats. The power of music and song was evident, and I think that must be a very rewarding thing.  

In answer to a question from Jim Gillespie, he told us about the song "Hearts of  Wonder," which he co-wrote with Pete Seeger, inspired by a discussion on how music is sometimes used by institutions to divide people.  They wanted to write a song about how music can unify.

In the very unassuming yet profound manner that is characteristic of Tommy Sands, he sketched a vivid portrait for us during that one hour together of what a powerful influence, both constructive and destructive, music and song can be on society.  He and his family have made a lifetime effort of finding ways to use their art -- the music of the people -- as a powerful tool toward peace. 

This is my favorite quote of Tommy's. I've heard him say it more than once, and it is so very representative of the convictions and motivations apparent in him:
Two buses met at a narrow bridge, and neither of them wanted to give way because the drivers didn't want to put off their passengers. Eventually some of the passengers got off and said, "Look, go back. It's all right. We ALL want to go forward."

The other Tommy, Tommy Makem, that is, was our tour guide for the afternoon, telling wonderful stories and poems as we toured the land that he calls Home.  The agenda was very full, and unfortunately we were somewhat hurried, but it was still an awesome afternoon. 

From Belleek, in the heart of South Armagh, we headed for the cathedrals of Armagh city. We only had time to visit one, but it was certainly impressive.  We waited while  a wedding finished up inside and took advantage of the view over the city and the beautiful grounds and cemetery.  I must pause here to extol the amazing skills and agility of our bus driver -- I think it was Eunan  that day. The gates of the cathedral were mere centimeters wider than the bus itself, but we slid through with nary a scratch. Breathes were exhaled in unison and a round of applause went up after our crossings.  

A quick ride through the city and then we were off to the Navan Ring Fort Visitor's Center.

We spent an hour or so at the Navan Fort Centre (here is a web site about it)  going through a very, very well done presentation of the history and folklore of the site.  While most of us were inside seeing the presentation and exhibits, one member of our group, talented poet Connie Jeffrey, was outside with the muses. The ancient Gaelic name for the site is "Emain Macha," thus the title for Connie's poem. She shared several poems with us over the course of the week, some she wrote then and some she'd written previously. I enjoyed them all and felt they added another facet to the week's experiences. Thanks Connie!  

Music of Macha's Fort Hear me, Macha Navan, all the spirit herein I sing my song to you  without words only heartbeats skipping in between the winds. My watching protector trees are here. A ring of them like Gullion green cloaked and waving. Rushing wind and birds-the only sounds I hear. Come around, magpies, five of them for silver. The clouds, the green mound and the trees all have answers of their own. I have no questions now just waiting. Silver the promised rain. This ground's music  will come to me as surely as it has always been here. © Connie Sanford Jeffrey

From Navan Fort, the bus took us up through Keady, Tommy Makem's home town and on to the village of Derrynoose. From there, we diverted to some country roads that I am sure  were never meant to see the likes of the huge tour bus we were riding in. Even the sheep and the cows were gaping at this bus in shock. There was no way any other car was going to get by us... the rock walls on both sides of the road were practically scraping the paint off the bus. (Thank goodness for Eunan's talented driving!)  Tommy was at the front of the bus, giving directions and just when we were really starting to wonder  where the heck we were going, we were there.  "There" turned out to be a farm yard somewhere deep in Makem Country.  

Now I am sure that we were an odd sight -- 30 or so folks, Americans, Dutch, and yes, even a few Irish -- getting off this huge cushy tour bus in the middle of a farm yard.  Tommy led us up the hill along a tractor path.  A ways up the hill we were welcomed into a cozy little cottage by the rest of the Makem clan, who were already waiting for us, and a few locals. Drinking songs were the theme for the afternoon and without getting too specific, I will say this: Tommy Makem and his family and friends showed us the FINEST of Celtic hospitality!  This visit was a true cultural experience that I can say with confidence probably would never be on a normal tour agenda or recommended in a guide book. For that fact alone, I will always remember that day, and I will always feel very honored and fortunate that I was a part of it. My sincere thanks to Tommy, Peter, John, Randall and the rest of the Makem Clan. When the lads started singing "The Old Stone Wall," I couldn't help but think, "It just doesn't get better than this."

Also thanks to a Dublin lady named Mary Macilvoy for sharing a song she wrote called "Northern Sky" . 

Reversing course, we headed back to the town of Keady and had dinner at the Old Mill, then jammed up traffic while we posed for a group picture in front of the Monument to Monuments, which is situated on the island of a  roundabout. Again, Eunan the bus driver came to the rescue and took all our photos with at least a dozen different cameras! Fair play to him for being such a sport! We had one blow-in who joined the photo shoot, a gent who claimed to be Vincy Murphy, the Mayor of Keady. Quotes Vincy, "'Ave ye a pound?"

Several songs and a  good bit of craic on the bus  got us back to the Belleek Country House in the heart of South Armagh. Entertainment that night was provided by local winners of the "Bard of Armagh" (www.bardofarmagh.com) humorous poetry competition that is held every year in Armagh. Well, the venue was packed with locals as well as us, and the poets were in fine form. Such fine form in fact, some of them were a little reluctant to give up the microphone.  Twas grand craic, though, and definitely a challenge for some of us Americans to puzzle through the local dialect and get the jist of the poems. "...Did she say Viagra?...."  As Martyn says, the bawd was enough to make the ladies of Amsterdam blush. And the Guinness was in good supply, too.

Making our escape back to the Mourne Country Hotel in Newry, we had several hours more of visiting, recapping the day, drinking a few pints, and of course singing a few songs.  That evening was particularly memorable because a song was born that day and shared that evening.  Jim Gillespie, a Festival participant from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, wrote the following lyrics that day, inspired by Tommy Sands and Tommy Makem and all the unity of the week. All it needs now is a tune.  Well done, Jim.

The Sun on the Strand Jim Gillespie, June 8, 2000 When you live on a green island Bounded by sun and by sand Your future can be brighter  Than the sun on the strand chorus: The sun on the strand And the songs of the island Are just the things needed To unite our great bands If Christians are willing to live as they pray Accepting each others differing way When "Where do you come from" means nothing more Then our future is moving to a bright new shore Once peace and justice are the rule of the land Then each will be free in the sun on the strand Free to find their unity in the new land Ah... but won't it be grand!

Kate Akers, kakers@chivalry.com Chivalry Music & Internet Publishing All photos on these pages were taken by Kate Akers and Jim Gillespie, ©2000. Reprinting or republication without permission is prohibited.